Unruly Presents



The Spectacle that was

WEEK 2023

WEEK 2023

This year's event is a celebration of the remarkable growth and evolution of fashion that transcends borders, telling the stories of diverse cultures and igniting a global passion for creativity. The runway becomes a canvas where the threads of tradition and innovation weave a tapestry of breathtaking designs, highlighting the dynamic and ever-evolving nature of African fashion.


I found myself immersed in the vibrant world of fashion as I attended the Spring/Summer 2024 edition of Lagos Fashion Week in Nigeria.

It was a gathering of some of the most talented designers from across Africa, all converging in Lagos for this prestigious event. Spanning from October 25th to 29th, the fashion extravaganza featured a breathtaking array of nearly 50 runways and presentations. Lagos Fashion Week has firmly established itself as the continent's premier platform for the fashion industry, and this year's event truly showcased its growing influence on the global stage.

It was awe-inspiring to witness the convergence of creative talent and the event's evolving mission to craft a Pan-African experience that could resonate with the global fashion agenda.

In the realm of Lagos Fashion Week, the expectation of vibrant colors is ever-present, and this season did not disappoint. A striking minimalist trend became the highlight, intriguing fashion enthusiasts with creative ways to combine colors and defy conventions to craft unique styles.

The Showcase

As much as I marveled at the captivating street-style extravaganza that unfolded before my eyes, my attention soon shifted toward the main event: the much-anticipated runway show.

Amongst the eager press corps, I found myself positioned with a Canon 6D Mark IV camera in hand, ready to embark on my mission of capturing every breathtaking moment on the catwalk. We assembled in a dimly lit room, bathed in the distinctive green hues that subtly echoed the presence of Heineken, the event's sponsor.

As we meticulously adjusted our camera settings, set up our sturdy tripods, and affixed our lenses, a flurry of backstage preparations continued to unfold, with models making their final preparations to grace the stage. I distinctly recall the producer approaching us with the crucial white balance information - a crisp 2900K. I hastily reset my camera, which had initially been set at 5000K.

After a period of eager anticipation, the moment we had all been waiting for finally arrived, and the show commenced in a blaze of creativity and style.

While I could certainly delve into the details of every brand that graced the runway, exploring the sheer magnificence of each outfit, spanning from extravagant to minimalistic creations, the sheer volume of it all would require a dedicated web domain and an extensive amount of your valuable time.

I've opted to focus on my top ten standout brands that presented their collections on the runway, providing you with a glimpse of their remarkable ensembles and sharing the reasons behind my adoration for their showcases.

“Anti Muse” by Abigail Ajobi

Abigail Ajobi's runway show exuded an unapologetic aura of self-assuredness as if proclaiming, "I'm ME; watch me shine."

The unexpected and electrifying presentation left the crowd in awe, igniting cheers of admiration while offering a fresh and innovative perspective. For their Spring/Summer 2024 collection, titled "Anti-Muse," Ajobi took us on a nostalgic journey to the early aughts, seamlessly bridging the gap between Y2k nostalgia and contemporary street style.

The collection featured models donning knitted crop tops, artfully crafted bikini tops, alluring net shirts, cozy hoodies, chic denim zip gowns, and flirtatious miniskirts.

The prints, emblazoned with the distinctive "AJOBI" logo, served as the collection's vocal point, inviting discourse on the brand and its underlying ethos.

“Pride Of Ghana” by Ajabeng

Ajabeng celebrates African culture with post-colonial optimism and a pan-African spirit.

Founded by Travis Obeng-Casper in 2018, this brand embraces both feminine and masculine design elements, creating an experimental yet conservative aesthetic. For his Lagos Fashion Week debut, he showcased his Spring Summer collection, titled “Pride of Ghana”. The show opens with a model strutting down the runway, beaming with smiles, while holding a vinyl record of Pat Thomas - Sika Ye Moga.

In a quick chat with Travis Obeng-Casper, he said “The Pride of GHANA" Spring/Summer 24’ collection is inspired by Nkrumah’s vision of freedom. The collection seeks to highlight Nkrumah’s personal interest in music and his desire to Modernize Ghana through highlife, a culture in which sound and rhythm organize collective life. He continued “Nkrumah, who best understood highlife’s critical potential to set a modernizing beat, turned his attention to culture. Recognizing the power of highlife to influence the population, particularly urban youth. Declaring that highlife was Ghana’s “national” dance music and that it, as well as stating that the country’s popular music scene needed to become more “Ghanaian” in composition and character”.

The Pride of GHANA collection aims to celebrate the Pride of Highlife soundtrack to everyday life, awakening parts of the Ghanaian character that no colonial administration had ventured to rouse.

“IGBOYA” by Cute Saints

Cute Saints, the trailblazing African contemporary fashion brand, unveiled its much-anticipated 2024 transeasonal collection.

Conceived by Muftau Femi Ajose, a renowned Fashion Editor, and Celebrity Fashion Stylist, Cute-Saint stands out as a sustainable, gender-neutral brand that skillfully weaves untold African narratives through a mesmerizing tapestry of colors, textures, shapes, and lines. Renowned for its alluring runway openings, the show commenced with a female model donning an adire-batik bathing suit adorned with a honeycomb motif, opera gloves, and Y2K sunglasses. This was swiftly followed by a male model showcasing a cropped pullover, swim trunks, and a striking batik wrap, all part of the captivating "Igboya" collection.

The collection remained true to Cute-Saint's signature style, harmoniously blending edginess with the brilliance of Nigerian craftsmanship, almost radiating a metallic allure. The color palette remained monochromatic, with a stunning spectrum of blacks, whites, and greys

Emmy Kasbit

Emmanuel Okoro, the visionary behind Emmy Kasbit, concluded the third day of the event with a remarkable presentation.

His showcase featured the unveiling of a new logo, a star-studded runway, and a captivating finale in which the Executive Governor of Lagos state joined him on the runway for a bow. Okoro's latest collection drew inspiration from his father's Ukara cloth, a historically significant textile associated with a group of men in Igboland, southeastern Nigeria. This marked a significant shift for Emmy Kasbit, as it ventured into signature prints for the first time.
The collection embraced an exciting fusion of traditional textiles and contemporary designs.

The collection included various silhouettes, such as a finely tailored pale blue blazer with matching slim-fitting trousers. Materials ranged from traditional Nigerian Akwete fabric to silk and linen. Okoro's vision moved towards more fluid and versatile pieces that seamlessly transitioned from day to night, emphasizing a commercial and wearable appeal that people can readily embrace.

"Connecting Lines" by The FIA Factory

Under the title "Connecting Lines," The FIA factory skillfully harnesses the influence of prints, seamlessly uniting contemporary aesthetics with approachability.

Through their creations, they craft garments that instill women with a strong sense of self-assurance.

I was granted a look at their collection notes, which read “Connection serves as the cornerstone of humanity and creatures’ survival. providing a sense of belonging, value, and a deeper understanding of the world. Versatile and endlessly interpretable, lines represent the continuous extension of life’s circle.”

The presentation also emphasized their commitment to upcycling and venturing into novel and thrilling domains, continuously fostering innovation and creativity. Their ingenuity shines through the fusion of traditional woven fabrics like Aso Oke with contemporary materials to craft modern garments.

To conclude the show, the brand's founders, Funke Asinobi-Ola, Ijeoma Jibunoh, and Abisose, joyfully walked hand in hand with their children, radiating smiles as they waved to the audience.

"DO YOU KNOW WHO I AM" by Fruche

Held offsite at an art gallery, Fruche created a unique purple emblazoned spectacle to showcase its SS24 collection titled “DO YOU KNOW WHO I AM”.

In a message from Frank Aghuno, the brand’s founder and creative director, he said “The new collection is titled “DO YOU KNOW WHO I AM” a phrase often yelled across the room (usually at the customer service department of a bank) Or the roads of Lagos when two reckless drivers accidentally touch bumpers and then decide to have a screaming match to prove the other person is in the wrong which just ends up causing even more traffic (The last thing we need in Lagos)”.

He further said “The pieces are inspired by all our best sellers. All my accomplishments. A different Demi-couture-like spin on them.”

The runway was adorned with a distinctive color palette, featuring a striking combination of white, red, pink, and black. Most outfits showcased a single dominant hue, while others dared to blend two, creating compelling and bold statements with each ensemble.


Katush is an African brand masterminded by Katungulu Mwendwa hailing from Kenya.

At the heart of Katush's philosophy lies a fusion of quality, versatility, sustainability, and original design. In their Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Katush presented a handpicked assortment of timeless, loose-fitting garments tailored to complement both masculine and feminine silhouettes. These creations burst forth with a vivacious spectrum of colors, breathing life into every piece.

Based in Kenya, Katush seamlessly melds traditional craftsmanship with contemporary, uncomplicated silhouettes that exude modern comfort and grace.

What sets this brand apart is its commitment to sourcing hand-woven cotton from artisan communities scattered across Africa, including the likes of Burkina Faso. This dedication to craftsmanship and sustainability underscores Katush's commitment to ethical fashion.

Kente Gentleman’s Dive Into Womenswear

Aristide Loua, the Ivorian creator behind the contemporary ready-to-wear brand Kente Gentlemen, made his highly-anticipated debut at Lagos Fashion Week.

The essence of Kente Gentlemen lies in its homage to the iconic Ghanaian Kente cloth, intertwining tradition and modernity. Loua's textiles are meticulously handcrafted by weaving communities in Côte d'Ivoire and Ghana, then elevated through globally transcendent silhouettes.

Notably, Loua's journey to Lagos followed his recent victory in the African Fashion Up incubator program, supported by prestigious entities like Galeries Lafayette and Balenciaga. This milestone marked an expansion into women's fashion for Kente Gentlemen. For his Fall collection, Loua drew inspiration from an unexpected source: Robin Givens's portrayal in the 1992 rom-com "Boomerang." He saw her character as a heroine, a strong and assertive leader who challenged stereotypes. This influence resonated throughout the collection, featuring a new pattern that graced an array of pieces, from oversized blazers to sleek dresses with elegant V-necklines. Loua's signature tailoring, vibrant "royal colors," and hand-tie-dyed organic cotton fabrics from Bassam, Côte d'Ivoire, formed the core of the lineup.

The runway pulsated with life to the rhythm of Ivorian former professional footballer-turned-musician Gadji Celi's "Femme de Feu." Loua's collection serves as a powerful testament to the harmonious blend of tradition, modernity, and the empowerment of Black women through the medium of fashion. To cap off the exquisite show, models conveyed their essence through dance, offering a final and dynamic presentation of the clothing.

“Under The Sea” by LFJ

LFJ, the brainchild of creative director Princess Juliet Olanipekun, emerged onto the fashion scene in 2020. 

It immediately capturing attention with its distinctive and unconventional style, as well as its penchant for crafting unique architectural pieces.

The brand has gained a reputation for its innovative interpretation of pleats, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship while seamlessly intertwining cultural art with fashion to birth designs brimming with character.At Lagos Fashion Week, LFJ introduced its captivating "Under Sea" collection to the runway.

This visionary collection skillfully manipulated plissé organza to replicate the intricate forms of oceanic life, from seahorses to sea anemones and jellyfish. The result was a series of silhouettes that were both breathtaking and expansive in their aesthetic.

Ugo Monye’s Spectacle

The show began with enthusiastic applause as attendees realized they were about to witness a stellar presentation.

Nigerian menswear designer Ugo Monye, who has over 10 years of industry experience, has captivated fashion enthusiasts with his eponymous brand.

His runway presentation was a sensory feast, treating the audience to a captivating array of colors and attire that was simultaneously familiar yet refreshingly surprising. From the selection of fabrics to the intricate craftsmanship, every element was deeply infused with the rich tapestry of Nigeria's cultural essence.

The show provided a contemporary interpretation of Nigerian culture, unveiling a perspective that had never been witnessed before.

In this particular season's collection, Monye delved into the regal heritage of Nigeria, utilizing clothing as a canvas to accentuate elaborate designs and meticulous styling that eloquently conveyed a compelling narrative of royalty.


Lagos Fashion Week truly lived up to the expectations, and as my inaugural in-person fashion show in Lagos experience, it has ignited a fervor for many more to come in the years ahead.

The showcased brands were distinctive and masterfully conveyed the narratives of their respective cultures with dazzling flair. Witnessing the burgeoning prominence of Pan-African couture has been a breathtaking journey, and it's evident that we've merely begun to uncover the boundless potential that the future holds. As we await the next chapters in this captivating fashion narrative, the excitement and anticipation continue to build, paving the way for even more remarkable moments to unfold.

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